Eventually we descended a huge staircase to return to beach hiking, where we easily passed a tidal problem at Tripod Rock. Distance: 49 kmDuration: 7 daysPeak: 123 mGain: 964 mMap: CalTopo. After we left the flat sand of Shuttleworth Bight, we quickly arrived at our second cable car over the Stranby River. Purple fireweed near the east end of Shuttleworth Bight was our beacon. John Baldwin’s map indicates that whales hang out here…and they do! Have your backpack packed and “hike-ready” before boarding the water taxi. There was the feeling of anticipation as we hung out near the dock, waiting to board the Cape Scott Water Taxi. Plan accordingly by carrying tide tables and know how to use them. Best hiking trails in North Coast, Iceland. The evening was misty and windy, so we claimed cozy tent pads in the forest rather than camp on the cold beach. Our first step off the Sea Legend 1 was onto a slippery, kelp-covered rock. We arrived fatigued, but humbled and excited from our shared wilderness experience. Previous campers had erected a rustic kitchen area, complete with windbreak, log benches, and storm-debris sculptures. Tide tables should be consulted before attempting to hike the beach section. The North Coast Trail Shuttle, which offers boat transfers to Shushartie Bay and pick up from the Cape Scott Trailhead operates May 1 to Sept 15. Our tired legs and feet were relieved to finally arrive at the expansive Laura Creek Camp (25 km). http://besthike.com/2012/09/18/dont-hike-the-north-coast-trail/. Tidal sea water mixed with the river at the mouth, so we hiked upstream for fresh water. There are currently no docking facilities. Wild Isle Publications. Waikato River Trail 4. Watch for whales and other marine mammals. The biggest obstacle of the day was a steep hill near Cape Sutil. After a quick clothing change, John whisked us away to the cozy Scarlet Ibis Pub in Holberg. Subscribe to our newsletter and get exclusive offseason deals. Reference: John Baldwin’s North Coast Trail Map 1:50,000. There is a ranger yurt located at Cape Sutil that is staffed with Park Facility Operators (PFOs) from June 15th to Labour Day weekend. Warm temperatures created the usual marine fog, which usually burned off in the afternoon. Water was trickier to obtain that day; many of the creeks had dried up or had very low flow. The boulders, pebbles, and tide pools along this stretch were spectacular. Animals sighted that day included small frogs on the beach, eagles, sea gulls, and ravens on the big Shuttleworth rock. Our first cable car adventure occurred at wide, tidal Nahwitti River. Overnight camping by permit for Kalalau is OPEN. The wolf chased a deer into the woods, across Irony Creek, and back out onto the beach. Historic rusty artifacts from Cape Scott’s Danish settlers were visible along this section. The City of Fort Bragg's newly constructed Coastal Trail was opened to the public on Saturday, January 31, 2015. John Baldwin. Hikes of varying lengths are possible along this route (not to be confused with the equally popular North Coast Trail on Vancouver Island). Most hikers take the water taxi to the Shushartie Bay trailhead and hike westbound. The trail is just starting to get popular on Vancouver Island, so you can literally show up at the trailhead on the day of your hike and get started. Birds dominated the wildlife scene as usual and we were always glad to see so many of them. Here are a few extra tips to make your water taxi experience better: Cape Scott Water Taxi service will start July 1st and run through until Mid September. (Note: the pages are not water-proof even though I thought they might be). Mike met us at the mid-point of our descent where we removed our packs for him to lower them down. Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trailhead: 15.4km – 5 to 7 hours. If you are hiking from Skinner Creek, fill up your water bottles there.There is a designated campsite at Skinner Creek with a pit toilet and food cache. The two camping areas at San Josef Bay have outhouses and food lockers. Osprey and sea lions made appearances while we rested. BC Parks continues to do a fantastic job with trail maintenance activities. We were now in a true wilderness, remote and pristine. There happened to be ten campers the night we arrived, a number that strained this site. On the way back, we passed a hiker who saw a bear at Nels Bight. North Coast Trail is a 74 m lift other trail located near Port Hardy British Columbia. Most people start the North Coast Trail by taking a water taxi from Port Hardy to Shushartie Bay, a scenic ride with whale watching and other great photo opportunities. The coastline is flat, but challenging in its own way. Shuttleworth Bight was so lovely that we decided to spend a sunny rest day here. North Coast Trail Hiking route in Shushartie , Regional District of Mount Waddington , British Columbia , Canada Leave a Review Pocket beaches and rocky headlands characterize this section of trail. Huckleberry bushes and berries were tempting, but we left the fruits for the bears. All of us rested on our poles for a while, excitedly watching him comb the beach before he saw us and ran into the forest. By Jun 11, the wind switched to the northwest and the rain stopped. Irony Creek is the only good water source along this section of trail. He graded the mud puddles as a “level 0.5 out of a possible 10”. We like to spread out to create space and solitude for ourselves and others. The real action was under the surface, where marine animals lived their lives out of sight as we hiked along. All fresh water should be treated before consumption. Wolf and bear tracks covered the sand. Distance: 13.3 kmDuration: 6 h 54 minPeak: 71 mGain: 200 m. Today was an important accomplishment as our team finished the official 43.1 km length of the North Coast Trail! The wildlife viewing started right away! A special marine mammal sighting from aboard the Cape Scott Water Taxi was two sea otters. Because Mike camped at Shushartie Bay the night before his water taxi departure, he observed the local animals over a period of several hours. Our group watched constant spouts that afternoon, with a few whales coming right into the bight on high tide…rolling happily around in the waves. We were also happy to use an intertidal route and avoid the unpredictable rope down the landslide rib between Tripod Beach and Cape Sutil. Excellent weather, an awesome team, lots of physical challenges, and beautiful scenery. The sand and pebble beach is an excellent campsite with a great water source. Wading past this section at high tide should not be attempted due to the risk of being swept out to sea. We arrived at the Stranby River cable car crossing at 1130 h. Cable car rides are highlights of the trail! There was a lone cormorant (not the helicopter!) This was the real rainforest, bathing us in all the fresh molecules of nature. Less hikers on Cape Scott Water Taxi for each trip due to social distancing. Find walking maps and guidebooks, self guided walking holidays and hiking tours. You will disembark from the bow of the bobbing Sea Legend 1 onto slippery rocks or drop onto a pebble beach while the motor is still running. The East Coast Trail unites genuine wilderness hiking with richly historic communities from Topsail Beach, to Cape St. Francis, to Cappahayden. Past storms shaped the coastal trees around us. There are always pockets of solitude at these designated campsites. The North Coast Trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park was by far the best backpacking trip of my life. The fresh water source is a bit of a hunt…look for a path into the forest from the beach. The boat trip was excellent, with blue skies and epic views of Vancouver Island’s northern coastline. This section provides sensitive habitats for amphibians, fish and invertebrates so please stay on the trail to avoid increased erosion and damage. The section is very slippery and a fall will likely result in serious injury. Wildlife viewing included several eagles, hermit thrushes, Pacific wrens, Steller’s jays, a loon at camp, and jumping fish! It is possible to hike along the beach from Skinner Creek to Nahwitti River at low tide; however, this section can be very dangerous during high tides and can be virtually impassable. Every step required intense mental focus. Sea gulls love bathing in Skinner Creek, so we collected water far upstream! 1st ed. After a long beach slog, we arrived at Christensen Point and spotted camp 3 km away. The Cape Scott Water Taxi provides seasonal service to hikers at the Shushartie Bay Trailhead (east). The Cape Scott Water Taxi could not execute our usual morning drop-off at Shushartie Bay. This historic area was the site of a past Danish settlement. We send our ongoing appreciation to BC Parks, Cape Scott Park & the North Coast Trail, and the North Coast Trail Shuttle & Cape Scott Water Taxi. Children from six to 15 years old are $5 per person per night. The trail got steeper as we hiked up to our main objective: the Cape Scott Lighthouse. There is no food cache at this location. When I was a kid, I wanted to be a marine biologist. A flight of stairs made the ascent much easier. It was a wonderful experience to immerse in the natural world, see wild animals in their homes, and feel the elements of summer ocean weather. We enjoyed our final descent through the forest, watching the trees for breaks and views of the beach. The challenge ramped up from there as our team climbed up a steep embankment with the aid of a rope. Smaller omnivores who caught our eye included squirrels, mice, and a mink. Laura Creek Campsite to Nissen Bight: 7.5km – 2.5 to 4 hours. We backtracked from Nels Bight to the Junction back to the trailhead. The small open space underneath the BC Parks trailhead sign served as a tent zone for three of our tents. Distance: 8.9 kmDuration: 7 h 59 minPeak: 245 mGain: 359 m. The trail section from Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek was 100% inland and 100% hard. About 500 m from the trailhead, I experienced my powerful wave of happiness and gratitude that I always feel near the end of a trip. BC Parks charges each person $10 per night to hike the North Coast Trail. Light showers turned the cool evening damp, signalling an end to the evening entertainment. Coastal Trail Now Open. Once we were out of the forest, it was all about kilometres of beach, with cobbles, tide pools, sand, pebbles, bleached eelgrass, and rocky shelves. All rights reserved. The energy and spirit of the group improved after we achieved this goal at Nissen Bight. On our warm and misty second day, we finally got our hike on. There are only ephemeral water sources along this section of trail. In a quiet moment doing a camp chore, crunching along the pebbles, we felt a connection with that lovely ocean being. Leadem T. Hiking the West Coast of Vancouver Island: An updated and comprehensive guide to all major trails. There are tent pads available in the sheltered forest or you may camp on the sand. North Coast Trail Shuttle rents VHF marine radios too ($50+tax). It is very slippery and unsafe. Our black bear viewing occurred early in the morning at Nels Bight, on our day-trip to the Cape Scott Light Station. Shuttleworth Bight is a massive beach that beckons hikers to stay an extra day. This is a true backcountry adventure and is quickly gaining a reputation as one of the best coastal hikes in the world. Before dinner, we had a stove operation lesson and after dinner we had a food storage lesson. The beach west of the Nahwitti stairs is impassable at high tide due to a rocky promontory. Increased prices for the 2020 season. Water is located at the east side, close to where the trail exits the forest. They would be the only other humans we would see for three days! Laura Creek Camp is a welcome sight after a hard day of beach slogging. This section is predominantly coastal. As of 2018, all overnight West Coast Trail spots are reservable. Our team enjoyed dinner at Laura Creek and retired to our tents. This is the western edge of Humboldt County in Northern California. Look for signs of the old corduroy settler’s road on the west side of the cable car. Bald eagles, hawks, sanderlings, ravens, crows, jays, and seagulls were with us on most days. The added service depends on tides and may increase the cost. Hikers will find themselves exposed to the effects of the open ocean with little in the way of cover in inclement weather. Showers sprinkled on and off all day, but the cool air was perfect for hiking. It has a water source about 50 m from the base of the access staircase, but no outhouse or food locker. There are no tent platforms but beach camping is possible.Skinner Creek is the only good water source along this section of trail. We liked Irony Creek Camp (13 km), with tent pads among pretty Sitka spruce trees and a good water source. Because the river is tidal, drinking water must be collected upstream at high tide. The tide dropped for a second time, revealing the rocky treasures below, and trapping the jellyfish once again. Port Hardy is the staging area for the North Coast Trail. The highlight of today’s overland track was a brilliant open bogland with thousands of pink sundew plants. After we pitched our tents, a little splotchy gray whale swam close to shore, quietly spouting. I made it all the way to the Stranby River, noticing a huge quantity of sand and seaweed far upstream. All passengers must have their own face covering and hand sanitizer before entering office and water taxi. The fog prevented any epic views, but we still enjoyed the light station structures and reading the guest book. The trail links to the current trail end of Cape Scott Park at Nissan Bight and continues to the Cape Scott Trail end at Shushartie Bay. They are your one-stop land and water logistics between Port Hardy and the North Coast Trail. Otherwise, the rest of day involved hiking along the coastline. We followed the wolf tracks once again, and even saw a small black bear foraging in the sandy eelgrass. Gallery Yet, when combined with a round trip to/from the Cape Scott Ligthouse, and the trip south to the San Josef staging area, the trip totals nearly 80 km. There is a pit toilet located 50 metres up the trail at the eastern end of the beach. Do not wear caulk boots in the yurt, and use the food caches located behind the structure. A rough inland trail can be used to bypass the beach if necessary. Artifacts and evidence of this time were present and highlighted with interpretive plaques. Beach camping is possible at Cape Sutil (there are no tent platforms at this site). The trail offers visitors a glimpse into wild, west coast ecosystems. North Coast Trail. The most challenging obstacle was the roller coaster overland section near Cape Sutil. Cape Scott Park is open year-round (check website for updates on trail conditions in case areas are closed for safety reasons), however fees are only collected from May 1 to September 30 … Our group set up camp, shared our first meal, and relaxed for the rest of the day. There are great tide pools here…once we saw a massive pool filled with trapped jellyfish! It begins and ends with easy sand beach walks before climbing back into the forest to traverse around the Nahwitti Cone. Access to the Shushartie Bay trailhead is by water taxi from Port Hardy. The guide is not waterproof, so keep it in a Ziplock bag! broccoli trees) and Nahwitti Cone above the ocean below. The North Coast Inland Trail, also known as the skinniest park in the Lorain County Metro Parks system, is open to non-motorized traffic of all kinds (except skateboards), including walkers, runners, bicyclers, in … Today was a big day on challenging beach terrain, so we got an early start. Consult tide tables to ensure high tides do not hinder progress along this section. The skunk cabbage carpeted the swampy parts with impossibly massive wet green leaves. You may have to walk a little farther to the food locker or water source, but an extra leg stretch is always good. For the first few days of the trip, winds from the south and light precipitation made for unsettled weather. We watched the wolf wait for the deer to return to shore, but the deer was smarter. Mike passed two day hikers, 19 backpackers, and six kayak campers during his week in Cape Scott Provincial Park. Cape Sutil itself lies outside of the park boundary in an Indian Reserve. ... Open fires are prohibited between the headland north of Yellow Banks and the headland at Wedding Rocks, including the Sand Point area. The weather was cool, foggy, and grey. Sunset and mist made an incredible double rainbow that spanned the forest and the bight…a perfect end to our last evening on the North Coast Trail. On our last day we finally woke to real rain! Many beach sections can be traversed at low tide, but look for the adjacent inland routes during high waters. Listen carefully to Captain George’s safety instructions. Our team encountered only a few other humans on the way back to Nels Bight. Location: North Coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada Park: Cape Scott Provincial Park First Nations: Tlatlasikwala, Nakumgilisala, Yutlinuk Distance: Then official North Coast Trail is 43 km (Shushartie Bay to Nissen Bight) plus a mandatory 15 km exit on the Cape Scott Trail (Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trailhead). Our group was a team of horses back to the barn…excited for pub food at the Scarlet Ibis and hot showers back in Port Hardy. We usually set up camp on the west end to be close to the “facilities” and make a trip for water afterwards. Irony Creek Camp is probably the most premium site on the North Coast Trail. Hikers accessing the North Coast Trail from the Cape Scott Trailhead may opt to stay here if they get a late start to the day. Beautiful areas included Bowen’s Beach, Experiment Bight, and the sand dunes of Guise Bay. The ladders to the cable car platforms are very steep and caution should be used especially in wet weather. The mix of sand, pebbles, cobbles, and sloped angles drained our energy. The tide was out, the surf high, and the air cold. Hikers can view sea lions, tidepools and spectacular spring wildflowers. We had a full group for our second Cape Scott Trails and North Coast Trail trip of the season. The raven alarm clocks woke us up. It’s not the nicest beach on the trail, but it is a logical place to stop on westbound itineraries. The First Nations crossed this narrow peninsula, portaging canoes to avoid treacherous waters around the cape. Unlike the West Coast Trail, the North Coast Trail is open to hikers without a reservation. This is the last section of inland trail before reaching the Nissen Bight trailhead. Other marine mammals included sea lions and harbour seals. There is a campsite with three tent platforms and a pit toilet located at Fisherman River at kilometre 9.3 (from the Cape Scott trailhead). We were lucky to experience abundant marine mammal sightings. Hikers usually only camp here if they have hiked eastbound and are getting picked up by the Cape Scott Water Taxi in the morning. In that fuzzy place where you know you are almost done, almost back to a hot shower and a comfortable bed, I get a lump in my throat and tear up. The crowds got thicker as we closed in on popular San Josef Bay. He sat there for the entire day, sometimes opening his wings, mostly just resting and watching. We descended to Nissen Bight by 1314 h and enjoyed watching whales off the beach. Carry full water bottles (there is no drinking water until Skinner Creek). The Cape Scott Water Taxi and North Coast Trail Shuttle also closed reservations down those weeks. There is a campsite located on the west side of Irony Creek in the middle of Shuttleworth Bight. Access gates will be OPEN … There is another creek east of the Laura Creek campsite. There are over 336 kilometers of trail to explore. You will probably have Guise Bay Camp all to yourself if you decide to stay here. Whales spouted all the time now, in fact they became our most common wildlife sighting. In a post titled "don't hike the North Coast Trail", besthike.com says: "The NCT is a 'backcountry adventure', not a hike. He took everyone’s pictures next to the trailhead sign for the scrapbook. 2015. Nels makes a great basecamp if you want to add the Cape Scott Lighthouse to your North Coast Trail adventure. Irony Creek Camp (Shuttleworth Bight) is a wonderful place to spend an extra day for a mid-trip rest. OTHER RECOMMENDED BOOKS: Please ensure you leave the yurt in better condition than you found it. Those of us that went into the ocean at Laura Creek Camp were treated with rocky tide pool “bathtubs” plus sea weed scrubs and giant red rock crabs for company. Area for first Nations history these designated campsites our shared wilderness experience was dry... 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