He stayed backstage, did almost no press—save for a few interviews conducted via fax—and eschewed fame and celebrity. Editors handpick every product that we feature. It worked. As Margiela describes the process, he makes turning a grocery bag into high fashion sound like the most natural idea in the world. Where Can You Stream 'Wonder Woman 1984'? Reiner Holzemer, der bereits die erfolgreiche Mode-Dokumentation "Dries" über den Designer Dries Van Noten gedreht hat, widmet sich in seinem neuen Film einem Mythos der Modewelt: dem Designer Martin Margiela. Everyday Fashion Week: 10 ikonische Modenschauen, die Sie jederzeit auf YouTube schauen können, 7 Beauty-Trends für 2021, auf die wir uns jetzt schon freuen. Then, in 2009, at the height of his career, he left his namesake fashion house without publicly saying goodbye, slipping further into his preferred state of anonymity. While the name Martin Margiela is renowned in the fashion world, the man himself is not well-known. Military socks became sweaters; wigs became coats; waistcoats were born from porcelain; even a plastic bag was repurposed into a top. A new documentary Martin Margiela: In His Own Words is available today via virtual cinema. His anti-fashion fashion, oversized silhouettes, repurposed garments, and deconstructed outfits blazed a trail for designers—Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Alexander McQueen, Jacquemus, and countless others—touching both couture and street wear. Amazon Video. Will There Be a Season 3 of 'Virgin River'? Oscilloscope Laboratories Martin Margiela has built an empire out of mystery, both in terms of his work as an iconoclastic fashion designer and his reclusive identity as an artist. Here's how the director pulled it off. No replacement creative director will be appointed. An exhibition on Margiela in Antwerp convinced the filmmaker of his next subject. “I could not stop thinking about [Margiela], reading about him,” says Holzemer. Six weeks later, Holzemer got a hand-written note from Margiela, agreeing to collaborate on a documentary. Die Tatsache, dass alle Kollektionen von Martin Margiela (Margiela und Hermès) zu diesem Zeitpunkt in Paris ausgestellt waren, kam uns gelegen. Jetzt anschauen: Die besten Modefilme aller Zeiten – von "Der Teufel trägt Prada" bis "Blow Up"! We Margiela tells the untold story of the enigmatic and singular fashion house Maison Martin Margiela. And though a new documentary on the legendary designer keeps his face hidden throughout the film, it uncovers … Filmmaker Reiner Holzemer shares how he captured the elusive designer. For the duration of his 20 -year term at the helm of his eponymous brand Maison Martin Margiela, Martin Margiela, the Belgian fashion icon, remained staunchly committed to his privacy. Der "Hollywood Reporter" nennt es "die beste Fashion Documentary des Jahrzehnts". He submitted a request to someone who knew someone, and three or four months later, he got an email response from the designer himself. This runway took place in a derelict playground in a neighbourhood on the outskirts of Paris. Mehrere Gründe und Umstände machten das Unmögliche möglich. In the documentary, Gaultier returns the compliment, lavishing praise on Margiela, who amusingly displays the fake badge he used to get into one of Gaultier's shows. Margiela quickly and confidently responds with one word: “No.”, Lebanese Designers on Creating Art Post-Blast, Sir John Dreamed Up Iconic Barbie Beauty Looks, Beauty Obsessives Will Love These New Products, Every Cute Bag on This List Is Under $100, The Most Iconic Fashion Quotes of All Time, The Most Tea-Spilling Fashion Books of all Time, This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. “It was not his first choice to talk about this moment in his career,” explains Holzemer. Die Hände und die Stimme des belgischen Designers beschreiben die bis jetzt unbekannte persönliche Geschichte eines Mannes, dessen Werk Teil unseres Alltags und unseres kulturellen Hintergrunds geworden ist. The allegedly leaked documentary, Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, is currently scheduled to be released on streaming services April 10.The film explores the life, work and philosophy behind one of fashion's most elusive figures. The Beyonce Documentary Trailer Is Here, Meghan Markle Surprised an Old Friend in NYC, Designer Dossier: Martin Cooper of Belstaff, A Day In the Life of Celebrity MUA Daniel Martin, Laverne Cox to Host The T Word, a Documentary on Transgender Youth. Belgian fashion designer famous for his eponymous fashion house in Paris. Directed by Reiner Holzemer, who also brought us Dries Van Noten documentary Dries in 2017, the film sees Martin Margiela himself open up for … Der "Hollywood Reporter" nennt es "die beste Fashion Documentary des Jahrzehnts". It was a way of building trust, though, which is one of the most important instruments in a documentarian’s toolkit. Curzon Home Cinema As a collaborator, Margiela tells the story he wants people to remember. “To this day, he wants to be anonymous,” Holzemer tells Marie Claire in an interview from his home in Munich. Sehen Sie exklusiv die Trailer-Premiere der Mode-Dokumentation "Martin Margiela: Mythos der Mode" bei VOGUE. Martin Margiela, who is known for his brilliantly eccentric design ethos, was always against publicly showing face. It balances me that I am like everybody else. “I don’t like the idea of being a celebrity,” Martin Margiela says. Gifts for Your Boss That Are Cute and Affordable, It's Been a Weird Year for 'The Bachelorette', Get in the Spirit By Streaming a Holiday Movie, Astrology Gifts for Your Horoscope-Obsessed Friend. These hands, belonging to the Belgian fashion designer, are all we see of him, beyond an indistinct face glimpsed within a busy studio in the broad setting of old photographs. So trafen wir uns zum ersten Mal im Februar 2018 in Paris und beschlossen sofort, dieses Abenteuer gemeinsam zu bestreiten. “It was very painful for him.” Holzemer believes Margiela is very happy to have it all behind him: “He wanted to make a positive documentary. How to capture the world’s most anonymous fashion designer on film. Alexander McQueen ganz privat: Diese Mode-Doku über Alexander McQueen zeigt ungesehene Aufnahmen des Modedesigners. Margiela balked, so Holzemer agreed to make a movie about the exhibition, even though he thought it would be “quite boring” to watch. Margiela made waves in fashion with his first show in 1989. Martin Margiela is the Belgian-born avant-garde fashion designer sometimes described as the couture Banksy, because he has never publicly shown his face for … For the first time, co-founder Jenny Meirens and the members of the creative team that stood at the heart of the house talk extensively about the creative processes and unique philosophies of the Maison. Interlaced with his memories are videos of Margiela’s groundbreaking fashion shows—set in parking garages and playgrounds—videos that document his inventive clothing, his rise to the world of haute couture (though he rejected that mantle), and the gorgeous, meticulous creations of his that became synonymous with capital-F Fashion. Das ist deshalb so erstaunlich, weil Martin Margiela – gleichwohl er als Meister der Dekonstruktion einer der einflussreichsten Designer der vergangenen Jahrzehnte ist – eines der größten Mysterien der Modebranche ist und sein Gesicht kaum jemand kennt. [Margiela] said, ‘I want to talk about the fun part of the fashion world, to encourage young people to follow their own dreams.’”, The film is a retrospective on the creative’s life, and also a reminder of how influential Margiela’s work continues to be. We may earn commission from the links on this page. In vollem Bewusstsein, dass es ziemlich unmöglich klang, diesen Mann vor die Kamera zu bekommen, stand der Name Martin Margiela ganz oben auf meiner Liste. Co-produced by Aminata and Holzemer (who had previously worked on a documentary by Dries Van Noten), it was called "the definitive study of this elusive, technically gifted designer " … Martin Margiela has never shown his face to the public, preferring the clothes to speak for themselves. While Margiela’s name is still in stores and his imprint on fashion remains as indelible as ever, it’s true that he has been gone from the fashion world for a long time now. It took another month for the Belgian designer to agree to allow his voice to be used in the movie, and even longer for the very private man to agree to share childhood memories. One of the film’s most telling moments has Margiela recalling an art school project that led him to create a jacket from a tea towel—no cutting, no pattern, just a towel folded and stitched into clothing. Film-Tipps: 8 Dokumentationen über den Klimawandel, die wir uns unbedingt ansehen sollten. "Nach dem Erfolg von 'Dries', meinem Porträt von Dries Van Noten, fiel es mir nicht leicht, einen weiteren Modedesigner für einen neuen Dokumentarfilm auszuwählen. He takes time to set the record straight about the split with his long-time business partner Jenny Meirens, his controversially edgy work at the normally staid Hermès, and even his decision to take on investment from Italian fashion entrepreneur and Diesel founder Renzo Rosso. Der Film enthält unter anderem Interviews mit Jean Paul Gaultier, der Trendforscherin Lidewij Edelkoort, der Modekritikerin Cathy Horyn und dem Modehistoriker Olivier Saillard. Directed by Reiner Holzemer who also made Dries, the Dries Van Noten documentary, in 2017, Holzemeer gets Margiela to open up in a way that would be unfathomable before, from discussing his childhood to the idea of continuing his legacy. He grew up in Genk, the son of a Polish-born hairdresser, and graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1980. Check out the trailer for the new fashion documentary Martin Margiela: In His Own Words ahead of the film's worldwide release on streaming services this Friday. Directed by Reiner Holzemer, the documentary follows the rise of Margiela's namesake label, the ways in which the designer changed the landscape of fashion in … Despite being featured in glossies and having his name scrawled across the windows of his minimalist boutiques, the designer remains as much of an enigma as the white, wordless tags of his chic clothing. I thought, Well, maybe I’m lucky.”. I did n… From the very beginning, he wanted the clothing to speak for itself. “Anonymity is very important to me. ‘The Artist is Absent’ which was released in 2015, used archived footage to tell Margiela’s story, whilst a 2017 documentary entitled ‘We Margiela’ featured Maison Martin Margiela’s creative team and shed a light on the house’s creative process. Likewise, in this fashion documentary the designer picks pivotal pieces from his collections. I always wanted to have my name linked to the product I created, not to the face I have.” He explains that his obscurity was always about self-protection. That project ushered in an ongoing theme in Margiela’s clothing: common objects transformed into art. Martins Wunsch, die Philosophie und die Entwicklung seines Werks zu erklären und zu veranschaulichen, nach all diesen Jahren für sich selbst zu sprechen, war echt. “It was always convincing, it was always a process,” says Holzemer. His descriptions of radically imaginative pieces, from the Tabi boot with its divided toes to his beloved flat sleeveless jackets, flow across the film, barely giving the viewer time to recognize how revolutionary his looks were. In October 2014, John Galliano was appointed as creative director of Maison Margiela (the new name), replacing Margiela himself. Martin Margiela then tells his story chronologically: from the early days when he developed the label with Jenny Meirens in 1987, to the first show in a theatre in 1988 and the Spring/Summer 90 show that changed everything in fashion. “I didn’t want to always comment on my collections. He has rarely been seen since making that bold decision, becoming the so-called “Banksy of fashion.”, So in an unprecedented but fitting move, Margiela keeps his face hidden in the film. [The press] thought I didn’t want to see them; that I wanted to become a mystery. ★★☆☆☆The elusive Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela is the hallowed subject of this dubious piece of brand management masquerading as documentary. It’s a decision that director Reiner Holzemer respected. A new documentary Martin Margiela: In His Own Words is available today via virtual cinema. VOGUE zeigt exklusiv den ersten Trailer zu Reiner Holzemers mit Spannung erwarteter Mode-Dokumentation "Martin Margiela: Mythos der Mode". “He wants to be able to go out in Paris for coffee in a café and no one will recognize him.”, After making a documentary on designer Dries van Noten, Holzemer knew he wanted to keep his cameras trained on the fashion world. Martin Margiela: In His Own Words On Demand Now. In November 2019, director Reiner Holzemer premiered the documentary 'Martin Margiela: In His Own Words'. The result is a film that is truly a collaboration between Holzemer and Margiela, offering the designer’s curated version of his life, starting from his childhood in Belgium to his school days at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp to his time working with Jean Paul Gaultier and his custody of the revered house of Hermès, all while running his own company. Maison Martin Margiela (now, sans Martin, dubbed ‘Maison Margiela’) was and remains the lodestar when it comes to conceptual, avantgarde fashion and that legacy is owed to the genius of a single man and his incredible team. “I told my co-producer that I would love to try and get in touch with him, even though she said he never does interviews and, in the last 30 years, he had not allowed anyone to take his picture. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io, Who's Who in the 'Tiny Pretty Things' Cast. At the end of the film, Holzemer asks Margiela if he’s said everything he wants to say with fashion yet. 'The Queen’s Gambit': The True Story, Explained. http://yoox.ly/1DBrzRt The exclusive documentary produced by YOOX Group and directed by New York filmmaker Alison Chernick. Until now. Holzemer brachte den Belgier dazu, von seinem Leben und seiner Arbeit zu erzählen, was ihn dazu bewogen hat, Maison Martin Margiela zu gründen und nach 20 Jahren und 41 provokativen Kollektionen seinen Lebensweg zu ändern und die Modewelt ohne öffentliche Ankündigung zu verlassen. That absence, though, may not be permanent. Die Filmmusik wurde von der belgischen Rockband dEUS komponiert. Maison Martin Margiela will continue trading but the company declined to comment on the reasons for Margiela's exit." Who Is 'Virgin River' Star Martin Henderson? At first, Margiela assumed the film would document his 2018 retrospective at Paris’s Palais Galliera, but Holzemer had a different idea: a portrait of a man who chose to disappear. “I had to be very, very patient,” says Holzemer. Marie Claire participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. DOCUMENTARY. After more than a decade since leaving Maison Martin Margiela, Martin Margiela takes a look back at his 20 years of work as fashion designer. He is diplomatic about it all, glossing over details he doesn’t want to dwell on, like his final days at his fashion house. As someone who has both an obsession with films and a pair of Margiela Tabis at the very top of her ‘if I ever get rich I’m buying this’ list, I was very excited to see a documentary on the life and career of Martin Margiela on the program for this year’s digital Melbourne International Film Festival. Martin Margiela in His Own Words (2019) – Reiner Holzemer’s latest documentary – opens with a pair of hands, deft and decisive, working with a discarded champagne cork. He judiciously avoided the press, refusing to do interviews, be photographed, or even come out and take the customary bow at the end of his runway shows. T his fun, nerdy follow-up to Reiner Holzemer’s 2017 documentary about Dries Van Noten takes on another Belgian fashion designer, Martin Margiela. In the new documentary "Martin Margiela: In His Own Words", the elusive designer finally opens up. Finally! The documentary isn’t the first dedicated to the designer. The film sheds light on the man behind the label, offering an intimate portrait of fashion’s most elusive figure. He also has fondness for covering his models' faces in veils, opaque stocking-masks or elaborate hairstyles. As Roitfeld says in the film, “Even to this day Margiela is present.”. While he never reveals his face throughout the documentary, Holzemeer films Margiela recreating some of his most iconic pieces. Die Offizielle Maison Margiela Online-Boutique besuchen und einzigartige Haute Couture und Ready-to-Wear-Neuheiten für Damen und Herren entdecken. The film sheds light on the man behind the label, offering an intimate portrait of … Over the course of nearly a year, Holzemer collected more than 200 hours of film, including images of Margiela’s studio, the designer’s hands flipping through sketches, clips of his fashion shows, and interviews with those who knew and admired him, including designer and mentor Jean Paul Gaultier, fashion icon Carine Roitfeld, and fashion critic Cathy Horyn. Martin Margiela is famously anti-fame. Convincing fashion’s invisible man to be followed by video cameras for months was not an easy task. Er tut dies mit einer unglaublichen Bescheidenheit für einen Mann mit solcher Bekanntheit", sagt Produzent und Regisseur Reiner Holzemer. Martin Margiela, Director: Martin Margiela Fashion Show Spring Summer 2001. 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